Monday, December 7, 2009

Sorry, but THAT'S a Spicy Meatball!

Scoville scale
Every family has its own traditions around the holidays. Some folks open presents on Christmas Eve, some fly off to the capitals of Europe for the duration, yet others have restaurant wait staffs serve them their turkey and stuffing. Everybody is different in that respect, and that's okay. Where I come from chili was always the de facto meal the night before Christmas or Thanksgiving, Secretary's Day Administrative Assistant's Day, whenever! But this year, at The Very Brady Thanksgiving, Mama Jean slaved two nights and days over Italian sauce and meatballs and I am ever so grateful that she did.
 
"I wish I had a real recipe to offer but I essentially just throw things in a pot and the ingredients are the usual suspects that go in everyone's sauce." ~ Mama Jean
Don't let that modesty fool you, Jean is a serious cook, and like all masters she has an intuitive feel for what works. It may have been Aunt Janie's house, but it was Mama Jean's kitchen. And if we were gonna have Italian the night before Thanksgiving, well it was gonna be done right, damn it.
 
AntipastaSesame bread sticks
 
Thanksgiving Eve Menu
Antipasto
  • Honey cherry peppers stuffed with goat cheese and pecan
  • Pickled cherry peppers stuffed with bleu cheese
  • Kalamata olives
  • Roasted red bell peppers
  • Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
  • Prosciutto
  • Peppered ham
  • Sesame bread sticks
Il Primo
  • Cheese-stuffed manicotti
Il Secondo
  • Hand-made beef, pork & veal meatballs
  • Sweet and hot Italian sausages
  • Homemade tomato sauce
Cheese manicottiItalian sausages and meatballs
 
Mama Jean's Meatballs and Tomato Sauce
"I brown sausage (and I usually also brown some country spare ribs...nothing like pork fat for flavor...but the stores were so crazy I didn't realize I didn't have them until I started cooking) in the pot I am using for the sauce. I put a small amount of [extra virgin olive oil] in [the] bottom just to keep everything lubed until the sausage/meat starts giving off juice/fat. You can remove the meat or just push to the side and add onion and garlic scraping the fond off the bottom of the pan. Then I add the tomatoes, red wine, fresh parsley, basil and oregano (dried if not available), and I usually add some grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Stir this all together and bring it to a fairly high temp (add back the browned pork if it has been removed) and then lower to a simmer before adding the meatballs."
THE MEATBALLS: "I used beef, pork and veal for the meatballs but any combo or beef alone works, too. I add salt and fresh pepper, fresh parsley, (sometimes some very finely minced garlic), grated Parmigiano Reggiano, bread (Italian, Wonder, whatever) that's been soaked in milk (bread crumbs if I don't have any bread around), and usually two eggs and shape into medium sized meat balls... I put a lid on the pot and let it simmer a little while. Check fairly often in the beginning that the bottom is not sticking being very gentle so as to not break up the meatballs. Then you can let it go for as long as you like. I generally put it on very low and just let it go for a few hours... Towards the end, I let it cook without a lid to let it thicken naturally if it needs that. IF I taste it and the tomatoes didn't have a rich enough flavor, I might add tomato paste, the tube type is best. You can also add some more fresh herbs to brighten at the end if necessary. I love this because it's good right away, later that day, the next day, or even from the freezer.
As in all things good ingredients yield good results.
"
The woman has banished the word "shortcut" from her vocabulary. You can throw away that cherished index card in your little tin file box. Jean's sauce had a richness that I'd never experienced before, and I live in an Italian neighborhood! I loved the extra grated cheese she included while cooking. It added another pleasant layer of complexity. Wisely, she served rustic Italian bread on the side for sopping up the leftover sauce on the plate. Can you imagine a homemade sauce without bread on the side? I don't want to live in that world.
 
 
Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food
 
 

Thursday, December 3, 2009

At's a Spicy Meatball!

Alka Seltzer's "Spicy Meatball" - 1969, courtesy of DDB New York
Sometimes it's hard being a California Irish-Mexican living in a New York Italian neighborhood. California being such a godless land of fruits & nuts, one forgets that the Sabbath is taken seriously in other, more pious parts of the world. So it is that on Sundays I can usually be overheard cursing the Church under my breath when Arthur Avenue virtually shuts down to trade. Granted, the bakery ovens still churn out loaves, and the restaurants are all open, but when lamb and fresh herbs are on the shopping list, I won't be checking off items at the corner deli.
 
And that is how this became a blog post on pork meatballs.
 
Quick & Easy Meatballs
  • 1lb pork loin or boneless chops, cubed
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 2 oz pitted green olives
  • 2 oz sun dried tomatoes
  • 2 oz toasted pin nuts
  • ½ Tbsp basil, chopped
  • ½ Tbsp thyme, chopped
  • Salt & pepper to taste
  • ¾ Tbsp olive oil
  • 1lb orzo pasta
  • 2½ cups vegetable stock
  • 2 cup water
Pulse pork, garlic, olives tomatoes, pine nuts, herbs and seasonings in a food processor until finely minced, but not puréed. With clean wet hands, form pork into golf ball-sized portions. Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat and fry meatballs until browned on all sides. Add ½ cup of the stock, and simmer over low heat for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, set the remaining 2 cups stock and 2 cups water to boil in a large stock pot. Add orzo and cook to al dente. Drain. Pile orzo onto a platter and arrange meatballs on top. Drizzle the sauce over the meat. Garnish, and bring to the table!
 
 
My meatballs were every bit as good as what I was hoping for with lamb, as if there was ever any doubt. The pork was just cooked through with no pink color and still lots of tender goodness. This is one of those flexible recipes. Think of what works for you: capers and dill, sautéed mushrooms and black olives, pimento and caramelized shallots. Follow your impulses!
 
There are so many nutritional plusses with pork, but that's not why I love it. Nope, I eat so much pork because it's flavorful, tender and juicy. It's hard to screw up a good cut of pork. You'd have to really hate cooking or be one of Dick Cheney's henchmen to ruin it. There are two keys to turning out excellent dishes: low & slow cooking for those fall-off-the-bone roasts and shanks, or quick searing, just reaching a safe internal temperature (145° to 160° depending on who you ask), for melt-in-your-mouth leaner cuts. I'm an acolyte in both temples.
 
By the numbers, it's hard to fault pork. An eight ounce serving has only 11g of fat, 4g of the saturated kind. It's sick with protein (65g) and minerals like potassium and phosphorus (1273g and 726g respectively). The only caveat on a warning label would highlight cholesterol counts: 170g per serving. So this isn't really your breakfast, lunch and dinner protein source. But if it's on the menu once or twice a week, you'll probably live a long, happy, healthy life. Yeah, I think about these things as I'm preparing recipes for you, and dinner for me!
 
 
Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food
 
 

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

A Milestone of Sorts

And on the 7th Day... was my 100th blog post. My one year anniversary went by un-noticed while I was abroad in August. No candle, no cake, no funny hat. But who remembers their first birthday anyway? I'll cut my teeth this year, and on my second anniversary - my terrible twos - we'll do it up right.
 
But a hundred posts! Whodda thunk it? Thanks to my small gaggle of loyal followers and to the tens of readers out there who end up here accidentally. You inadvertently bump up my tracker count, and I find that somehow gratifying in an empty sort of fraudulent way.
 
We are by no means done with The Very Brady Thanksgiving, but I found the pretty picture above on Google Images and wanted to get it up here before anything else. So keep checking back periodically, tell all your friends and acquaintances about me (without divulging my true identity), and don't forget: the Post a Comment button actually works!
 
 
Thanks for taking the time, seriously - Blog O. Food