The Cocktail Hour, Refined

After " what's for dinner?", our favorite question is always when do the T's arrive on island. Our neighbors just to the east on Cottage Road have been summering on Chebeague for twelve or so years now, and got sucked in to the Webb vortex when their three sons became fast friends with our island brood at the Rec Center pool. The boys have grown into handsome fellows who'll lead the charge in pier jumping and lighting illegal fireworks the night before the Fourth. The oldest is a power hitter on the golf course with an infectious laugh and permanent smile lines around his eyes. Father T. is a district attorney back home, and understandably slides right into island mode the second he steps ashore. He spends most days shaming me on the links, and at Hayden Beach rustling up mussels that his wife Libby serves with drinks most afternoons on their deck overlooking Chandler's Cove.

This year, for the first time, the D.A. enlisted me to help forage for bivalves at his favorite spot. I was flattered. We met up at the appointed hour, just before low tide, and drove out to Jenks Landing and waded into the shallow waters of Coleman Cove (Hayden's Beach, the D.A. likes to call it, as most of the property around the cove is owned by George Hayden). Just a few feet from shore, we were practically tripping over clusters of wild mussels clinging to loose stones. It took us about 15 minutes to fill two buckets with large, beautiful shells. When asked later how the job went, my only reply was, "it was like shooting fish in a barrel."

Libby has come up with two ways to prepare wild mussels. The first is a classic recipe with tomatoes, shallots, garlic and white wine.

Mussels in White Wine

3lbs fresh mussels 2 Tbsp unsalted butter 2 Tbsp good olive oil 1 cup chopped shallots (5 to 7 shallots) 1½ Tbsp minced garlic (5 to 6 cloves) ½ cup drained canned plum tomatoes, chopped 1 cup dry white wine

In a large sauté pan, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook for 5 minutes; then add the garlic and cook for 3 more minutes, or until the shallots are translucent. Add the tomatoes and the wine. Bring to a boil. Add the mussels, stir well, then cover the pot, and cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until all the mussels are opened (discard any that do not open). With the lid on, shake the pot once or twice to be sure the mussels don't burn on the bottom. Pour the mussels and the sauce into a large bowl and serve hot with crusty bread to soak up the sauce.

Libby's second method was a straight forward grilling and a simple melted butter with garlic and fresh parsley topping.

Grilled mussels

3 pounds cultivated mussels ½ cup melted butter 4 Tbsp minced garlic 6 Tbsp fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped

Place cleaned mussels directly over hot coals on the Weber. Grill for 8-10 minutes, or until mussels have opened up (discard any that do not open). Meanwhile melt butter in a small saucepan and add the minced garlic and parsley. Keep warm until mussels are cooked. Drizzle melted butter over hot mussels and eat immediately.

There is absolutely nothing better that fresh, wild mussels. They are fat, succulent, salty and tender. I had so many one afternoon, I had to push away from the table come dinner time. There was no way I could possibly eat another thing.

The D.A. and I are simply incredulous that more people aren't at our beach collecting their own mussels. Seems most folks are satisfied with farmed ones. Fine by us!

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

Hendiatris Clues*

Eight o'clock, Thursday morning, December 31. Through the wide bank of plate glass doors in the kitchen, I could see snow beginning to fall gently on the broad expanse of lawn. "How pretty," I thought. "If this keeps up, we'll have an amazing scene to view by the time everyone arrives." Two hours and two inches later I'm in a state of high anxiety worrying that folks won't take to the roads in these conditions, or worse, might be stranded for hours on the side of the road in a snow bank. I mean, I had a refrigerator bursting at the seams with food. Who was gonna eat it all??? But worrying is what I do instead of watching TV. By noon, the snow had tapered off and Suffolk County's finest were out plowing the major thoroughfares. The Hamptons Jitney worked as dependably as its US Postal Service third-cousin-twice-removed, delivering C-Hart relatively close to schedule. The Young Marrieds from New England and Westchester showed up within minutes of one another, and Long Island native, Jean-9 brought up the rear loaded down with goodies from home under one arm. It was time to get this party started.

I had done the bulk of the prep work the day before, so wasn't stuck in the kitchen while everyone else gathered in the living room. With the champagne poured and introductions made, former classmates caught up on the latest news and everyone commented on the Irish Lass's pregnancy, suggesting baby names that grew more and more absurd as the night wore on.

There were some last minute adjustments to the menu, but the early appetizers were ready for plating and presentation once everyone was assembled.

Phase I: Candied Jalapeños, and Bruschetta

Everyone ought to know how to make bruschetta. Toast sliced baguettes drizzled with olive oil in a hot oven (400° F) turning to toast on both sides. I amped up my bread with a sprinkle of garlic powder before toasting. Dice ripe tomatoes, chop fresh basil, crush garlic cloves, toss together in a mixing bowl and season lightly with salt & pepper. Mound each toasted slice of bread with tomato and basil and top with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. A classic. I had the candied jalapeños for the first time during my Christmas visit with Pops O'Food. He got the recipe from his grand niece last Father's Day. Proud Man Tribe members in good standing, we both agreed that one could reduce the sugar and increase the amount of chili seeds and get a real kick ass condiment.

Candied Jalapeños - adapted from Recipezaar.com

1 lb jalapeño peppers, thinly sliced, half the seeds and membranes removed ½ lb yellow onions, diced ⅛ cup vinegar ⅛ cup water 1 cup sugar 1½ tsp mustard seed ¼ tsp turmeric ½ tsp celery seed ¾ tsp garlic powder ¼ tsp ground ginger 1 ½lb (8oz) block cream cheese, brought up to room temperature

Place peppers, onions, vinegar and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer until chilies and onions are soft, about 10 minutes. Pour off most of the liquid and add the sugar and spices. Bring to a soft candy temperature (234° F, if you're keeping score at home) to completely dissolve the sugar. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature before serving piled atop a softened block of cream cheese. Use sturdy crackers or chips for dipping. You can quadruple the recipe and put up the jalapeños in sterilized jars for houseguest gifts. Leave ¼-inch of headspace in each jar then cap.

Just as Pops and I suspected, all the peppers needed was a little less sweet, and a lot more heat! My New Year's Eve audience agreed. Even the Irish lass thought the spread had just the right amount of kick. The bubbly continued to flow, the cool kids smoked cigarettes on the patio, and folks elbowed for room on the iPod or in the kitchen, where major love was being performed by BOF and the ever awesome Jean-9.

Phase II - Crab Puff Pastry Cups, and Baked Stuffed Tomatoes

Originally, I was gonna repeat last July's Chebeague Satchels, but in actuality, those summer purses were an accident of miscommunication. I had intended on using puff pastry as the wrapper for my sausage mix. With crossed signals, phyllo dough was delivered to Cottage Road, and like all things in Maine, one makes due. The results spoke for themselves, but while in the frozen food section of the Southampton Waldbaum's, inspiration struck and I picked up a couple packages of puff pastry instead, knowing intuitively, exactly what I was gonna do with them.

Crab Puff Pastry Cups

1 lb lump crab meat 3 Tbsp fresh lemon juice ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup scallions, thinly sliced ¼ cup celery, finely chopped ¼ cup celery leaves, roughly chopped ¼ cup flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped Salt & white pepper 2 packages puff pastry, thawed 1 egg, beaten lightly Butter

Whisk together lemon juice, olive oil and ½ tsp salt in a large bowl. Mix in scallions, celery, celery leaves and parsley, then add crab meat and gently toss. Season with white pepper and salt, or with seafood seasoning. I stuck with salt. I wanted a cleaner taste with the crab flavor coming through. Meanwhile, on a floured surface, roll out thawed puff pastry to about ⅛" thickness. With a cookie cutter, or drinking glass, cut two 3" rounds per cup. Cut a smaller 2" hole into half the rounds to make donut shaped rounds. Place whole rounds in a buttered baking pan and brush with egg wash. Center a "donut" round on top of each whole round and wash again with egg. Spoon a bit of crab mixture inside each donut hole and bake for 6-7 minutes in a 400° F pre-heated oven.

Here was our OMG moment for the night, at least culinarily speaking. Everyone, EVERYONE was blown away by this one. Although I had a sneaking suspicion I was gonna hit this one out of the park, no one was more pleasantly surprised than I at the response. Give people butter, flour and egg, and they'll be eating out of your hands... literally! Jean-9's stuffed tomatoes were a delicious godsend, proffered to anyone a little bit preggers, as shellfish is off the menu until delivery day.

Baked Stuffed Tomatoes Provençale - The Institute of Culinary Education

4 firm, ripe medium tomatoes Salt 1½ tsp minced garlic 2 Tbsp finely minced shallots 3-t Tbsp minced fresh basil ½ tsp dried thyme Freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup olive oil plus additional ½ cup dry white bread crumbs

Cut tomatoes in half, crosswise. Using an index finger, poke seeds from the tomato cavities. Sprinkle the halves lightly with the salt and place the tomatoes upside down on a rack. Allow to drain, about 20 minutes. In a small bowl combine the garlic, shallots, basil, thyme, ¼ tsp salt, 1 tsp pepper, the olive oil and the bread crumbs. Season the insides of the tomato halves with pepper and fill each with 1 or 2 spoonfuls of the stuffing. Sprinkle with a few drops of oil. Arrange the tomatoes in a baking dish just large enough to accommodate them. Bake in a 400° F pre-heated oven until the tomatoes are tender but still hold their shape, 10-15 minutes; the filling should be lightly browned. Cool slightly and serve. Two words: Yuh Me.

After all the oohs and ahs, the cooks earned a little break from the kitchen. The music was cranked, we listened to tall tales spun by Bones and narrowed down our choice of baby names. Hudson was the clear front runner with everyone but the expectant mother, and hers was gonna be the only vote that counted.  Her polite silence seemed like a good time to serve up a palate cleanser before dessert.

Phase III - Chilled Soup

Ceviche - Recipe courtesy of Ted Allen

1 lb fresh tilapia fillets, or other firm white fish, cut into 1' pieces 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and diced ½ red onion, thinly sliced ¼ tsp salt ⅛ tsp freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup freshly chopped cilantro leaves 2 cups freshly squeezed lime juice, more if need to cover fish

Combine all ingredients except lime juice in a flat-bottomed baking dish. Cover with lime juice, making sure all fish is submerged. Chill 2 hours. Mine chilled overnight. Too much? It certainly was tangy, but that could have been from limes that weren't quite ripe. When I make ceviche again, I'll cut the lime with a little sesame oil (just a few drops) to reduce the acidity a bit. Otherwise, another winner. Make sure to get really fresh fish, it makes every difference. Did I say winner? Everyone except for poor Bones thought so. He didn't know what ceviche was. He assumed the fish floating in his cup was potato. You should have seen the look of shock on his face after the first mouthful! When he surreptitiously put his still-full cup down on the table, I had to call him out. He would have done the same for me!

Contented groans from the men and polite sighs from the womenfolk signaled that everyone had been well fed and watered. But there was still more to come. We cooks thought it wise to sandwich a little break from the eating between soup and dessert. Jean-9 produced strips of paper and we all wrote down topics for charades. Unbelievably, half the crew had never played before, so clues were halting at best in the opening rounds. Once people got the hang of it though, there were some pretty ingenious moments, and by the time everyone had had a chance to perform we were howling with laughter. Seemed like a good time for something sweet!

Phase IV - Dessert

I must be on some unsolicited mailing list, as I have been receiving Martha Stewart's Living magazine for a couple months now. It's all eye candy and three-sentence blurbs for those of us with attention deficit disorder. Each issue highlights indispensable advise on how to gift wrap anything, or what kind of $300 galoshes you should be buying for your kids. I don't know how I've lived without the magazine for so long! Anyway, included every month are fairly straight forward and seemingly tasty recipes, so I thought I would give one a try.

Cherry Compote with Mascarpone and Shortbread Cookie

1 cup fresh or frozen cherries (Martha uses cranberries) ½ cup packed light brown sugar ½ cup brandy 3 Tbsp water ½ mascarpone cheese Store-bought shortbread cookies

Bring fruit, sugar, brandy and water to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until cherries are tender and the liquid syrupy, about 15 minutes. Let cool slightly. Cover, and keep warm. Just before serving, spread mascarpone onto cookies. Top each with compote and enjoy.

This one was not bad, actually. I suspect the booze was the key ingredient, but I enjoyed it, so thought we were safe. Mystifyingly, one guest never ate fruit. He thinks bananas loathsome. I had never heard of such a thing. Fruit? FRUIT??? I was stunned into silent disbelief. I would out him here for public ridicule, but he's in possession of so many other amiable qualities. This quirk just makes him all the more endearing and interesting. Desserts will always be a challenge with him, however.

The new year came and went with hugs and kissing. Guests picked at leftover dips and cheeses. Bones tried to make fun of everyone's iPod libraries. Charades got louder and longer, and things went late into the night. I thanked Jean-9 over and over for all her indispensable help and secretly patted myself on the back for pulling this one off. It was another good New Year's Eve party. If word gets out, we may have to rent space or make the guest list painfully exclusive. You decide.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

*Answer: Friends, Food, Frivolity

Here Comes Another One, Just Like The Other One

A few years ago, after one failed attempt after another, my crew and I decided to stop trying so hard to have fun on New Year's Eve. That first subsequent party consisted of six of us, rotisserie chicken and veggie wraps bought at Safeway, about 6000 cds, playing cards, cigars, and a mixed case of really excellent champagne. We stayed up until dawn blasting the stereo and playing røvhul. No one could remember a better New Year's Eve, hangovers be damned. The bar was set pretty high that night, but subsequent gatherings have always managed to exceed expectations. You can thumb through old posts here and read about last year's soirée and menu. I'm hoping for another memorable fête this year with my east coast fan club. Again, there will be six of us out in posh Southampton (hopefully nobody's checking credentials at the city limits), plenty of "Bolli", and I'm doing all the cooking, ably assisted by Jean 9. It'll be such a fine group that, if we manage not to force the frivolity, it ought to be another banner celebration.

New Year's Eve 2009 Menu

Candied Jalapeño Dip Grilled Prawns with Zesty Lemon-Caper Sauce Ceviche in Lime Cups Chebeague Crab Satchels Bruschetta Alla Romana Martha Stewart's Cranberry Compote with Mascarpone and Cookies*

If I'm not at the market looking for flat-leaf parsley or hothouse tomatoes, I'll be strapped to an apron and away from the computer for the duration. You'll have to read about the aftermath in the coming year.

Until then, the very Happiest of New Year's and a healthy, prosperous Two Thousand Ten.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

*I know... I know.

1. 2. 3.

Five championships down, four to go. It's been kinda fun coming up with something quick to eat and worthy of a blog post all at the same time. If not for You Gonna Finish That?, I'd be eating cereal or PB&Js, and who wants to read about that? But here's something I found in a British food magazine while abroad this summer. More of a brunch item, or an h'or d'oeuvre, but it falls into the cherished cheese category, so what the heck. The hardest part of the recipe was the conversion from metric to imperial units.

Bake herb Ricotta - adapted from Waitrose Food Illustrated

16 oz Ricotta cheese, drained ¼-cup Grana Padana cheese, finely grated 2 Eggs 1½ Tbsp dried basil Olive oil 1 whole garlic clove Whole grain or sourdough bread

Beat. Spread. Bake.

In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the cheeses, eggs and basil to combine. Spread into a greased loaf pan or mold and bake in a 375° pre-heated oven for 30-35 minutes, or until the cheese rises a bit and begins to brown. Run a knife around the cheese to loosen and release cheese onto a platter. Serve on toasted sourdough drizzled with a little olive oil and rubbed with garlic cloves.

I never get to use my stand mixer. It usually spends its days as bulky kitchen decor, but I got it at a very good price, so don't really mind. I was thrilled to take it out for a spin. The baked Ricotta was so easy, it feels like cheating to write about it. I tossed a little leftover mesclun and avocado on the side, and I seem to be on a bit of a roasted tomato kick. But hey, I just go with the flow here. There's obviously some "higher power" in charge.

I wonder how this spread might be received on Chebeague next summer. We already have a baked brie appetizer. Is there room for another cheese dish at one of our cocktail hours? What am I saying! I'll run it by Muffy this winter to see if it passes muster. If FDA restrictions are less stringent around your house, pull this one out at the next grown up gathering.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

Grilled polenta

It took B.O.F. bff and new papa, Matty O'Food, to lure me back to Blogspot Dot Com. I've been in an extended funk since returning from Europe. I didn't realize it, but after so many great meals shared with friends, I just couldn't face cooking for one again. Where's the inspiration in that? But Matty's foodie IMs stirred the sleeping muses and I am once again looking with fondness at my kitchen.

During one of those online conversations, I surprised Matty - and myself - with a northern Italian spin on a classic Tex-Mex breakfast dish. Corn meal was gonna make a guest appearance, but polenta is a time-intensive affair, and one doesn't just whip up a dollop or two on a whim. Only by planning a couple of dishes was I able to justify the labor involved.

Polenta 101:

4 cups water 1 cup polenta 1 tsp salt 2 Tbsp butter ½-cup grated Parmesan cheese

In a heavy-bottomed pan, bring water to a boil. When rolling, whisk in polenta in a slow steady stream. Reduce the heat under the pot to low and continue to stir the polenta constantly for a few minutes until the meal becomes suspended in the liquid. Cook at a low simmer for 1 hour, stirring periodically. After an hour, whip in the butter, remove polenta from heat and stir in the cheese.

Cooked polenta should be silky and creamy, with a pourable consistency. It wonderful sauced with a ragù or sautéed mushrooms. You've seen it here with cacciatore. As polenta cools, it sets up quickly. Firm polenta can be cut up then baked, grilled or fried. Pour finished polenta into a large, ungreased baking dish and spread evenly with a spatula. Let the polenta set and do not cover until completely cool. Once firm, let your imagination run wild with serving ideas. Enzo's of Arthur Avenue was in my crosshairs.

Grilled polenta & cannellini - adapted from Enzo's of Arthur Ave.

1 lb dry cannellini beans rinsed and soaked overnight 1 lb sweet Italian sausage Polenta, firmed and cut into 4" squares Olive oil Salt Red pepper flakes

In a large stockpot, cover soaked cannellini beans in plenty of water and set over a high flame. Once the beans come to the boil, reduce to a low simmer and cook beans for about 2 hours. Stir occasionally to keep the beans from crowding and sticking to the bottom of the pot. Make sure the water level stays a couple of inches above the beans at all times. Do not add any salt until the end of cooking. Salt interferes with the cooking of dry beans making them tough.

Start checking the beans for doneness after 60 minutes. Cooked beans should be tender. Under cooked beans will be grainy feeling in the mouth. Do not drain cooked beans immediately, but allow them to cool in their own liquid. If drained while still hot, the skins crack and the texture gets ragged. Reserve the cooking liquid once you drain the beans.

As the cannellini beans cool, remove the sweet sausage from its casings and crumble into a large skillet and brown completely over medium heat. Allow the pork to cool a bit, then transfer to a food processor. Break down the meat into a coarse texture with short pulses.

Ladle some of the reserved cooking liquid from the beans into a sauté pan. Add a few tablespoons of beans and sausage. Reduce the sauce for 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and red pepper flakes. While the sauce reduces, brush polenta squares with a little olive oil and cook on both sides on a hot grill. The polenta is already cooked. You're basically looking for nice grill marks to tease the eye at the table. Spoon the cannellini and sausage sauce over the cooked polenta and serve right away.

I have a standing invitation from Enzo's chef Harpo to invade his kitchen where he will divulge some of the state secrets behind their more famous dishes. Before taking him up on the offer, I thought I would have a go at one of my favorite appetizers of his. I think I got pretty close. At least I pushed away from table satisfied. And that's all that really matters now, isn't it.

There was a good two-thirds of a pan of polenta leftover for breakfast the next morning. You're not gonna believe what I served up. Until then...

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

This Is Not Yo Cheese!

Most days I can be counted upon to stick my nose up in the air at processed foods. I can whip up something healthier, better tasting, and cheaper at home. However, if you ever see me at a ballpark or stadium, that snooty attitude goes the way of the Dodo, only faster. Suddenly, my darker nature kicks in, and I'm shoveling hotdogs and soft pretzels down my gullet with alarming speed and deadly accuracy. I spend the rest of the afternoon simultaneously satisfied and disgusted with myself. But junk food at sporting events is included in the Bill of Rights, right? Surely that is what George W. Bush meant when he said the terrorists hate us for our freedoms.

All this past weekend I passed up chances to fall off the wagon and gorge on Buffalo wings, curly fries, jalapeño poppers and nachos. By this afternoon, my defenses were completely shot, so I rationalized that making junk at home would surely be healthier than ordering it off the menu at Yankee Stadium or some Irish bar in Woodlawn. My conscience will no doubt nag me later, but right now, my full belly congratulates me.

Steak & black bean nachos

Corn tortilla chips 2 cups refried black beans ¾ lb shaved beef 1 Tbsp butter 1 Tbsp all-purpose flour ½ cup milk ¼ lb cheddar cheese, grated ¼ lb Monterey jack cheese, grated 3 jalapeño peppers, sliced 4 Tbsp olive oil 3 Tbsp soy sauce 1 tsp chili power ¼ tsp ground cumin ¼ tsp ground black pepper Salt and hot sauce to taste

Start by marinating beef, overnight if possible, in oil, soy sauce, herbs and spices. Bring to room temperature 1 hour before cooking. If you're not of Hispanic decent, you probably don't have a pot of beans on the stove at all times. In that case, used canned refried beans. Latinos know how to make refried beans by the time they're 6-years old. I've covered it before here.

For the sauce, make a roux with the butter and flour, cooking for 3-4 minutes over medium heat. Whisk in the milk and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low, and gradually whisk in the two grated cheeses and allow sauce to thicken, stirring frequently for 10 minutes. Season with salt and hot sauce. While the cheese sauce thickens, grill beef on a cast iron griddle over medium high heat for 6-7 minutes, tossing frequently. Lay down a layer of corn tortilla chips on a large platter. Sprinkle with cooked beef and a big spoonful of beans. Drizzle with cheese sauce and top with chilies. Repeat with another layer of chips, meat, beans, cheese sauce and peppers.

The marinated beef was extraordinary. Complex, rich and multi-layered. Cheese in the refried beans along with the spicy cheese sauce seems to me a little excessive, but we are talking junk food here after all. Besides, it's Sunday, and all bets are off. Finally, fresh, hot chilies brighten things up and make your scalp sweat. A good reason to drink an arctic cold beer with your plate of triple-bypass chips.

Before starting, I went online to look over cheese sauce recipes as a refresher course. I hit the mother lode for all things nacho. I am quite simply astounded at what you can purchase online these days. I wish I were a salesman. I would be writing this blog from a white, sandy beach on my own private Pacific island along the Equator. You just know every one of the sauces above is the exact same thing with just a different label plastered on the jars. There is probably some slob collecting a fat check for every university alumni who orders a jar of this crap. All I can say is, good for him.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food