Leftover Delivery System

You just knew that with all that great food, there was bound to be something left over the next morning. Miss Muffy, being the frugal sort, simply couldn't allow good food to go to waste. She's a cook after my own heart. So what better way to get leftovers from the fridge to the table in a tasty and eye-catching package? Why, the incredible, edible egg of course!

Root vegetable Frittata - a Muffy and Blog O. Food recipe

6 large brown eggs leftover pan roasted root vegetables 3 Tbsp grated Parmesan cheese ½ Tbsp fresh thyme leaves 1 tsp kosher salt ½ tsp coarsely ground black pepper 2 Tbsp unsalted butter 1 Tbsp vegetable oil

Preheat an oven broiler. Set a rack 6-8 inches from the heat source.

Meanwhile, break eggs into a large mixing bowl and lightly whisk with a fork. Add the leftover vegetables, Parmesan cheese, thyme, salt & pepper, and gently stir to combine.

Melt butter and oil in an oven-proof 12-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat until butter stops sizzling. Pour egg mixture into the pan and cook for several minutes while the bottom sets. With a rubber spatula, periodically push the edges of the egg mixture in toward the center allowing runny, uncooked egg to fill in the voids. Once the mixture becomes mostly solid - but still moist - cook 1 minute more, undisturbed, to set the bottom.

Carefully transfer the pan to the oven and broil for 2-3 minutes, or until a light brown crust forms on top of the eggs. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for a few minutes so the frittata cooks through.

Cut into wedges and serve with toast. Dollop sour cream or salsa on top of the frittata for added flavor.

Well, you can imagine what a little egg will do for root vegetables. Take care not to overcook the frittata on the stovetop. Once removed from the broiler, it will continue to cook through for several minutes. If it's overdone beforehand, it will be very rubbery and unpleasant on the plate.

Finally, on Sunday morning with stores in the larder running low, it was time to put the house back together and close it up for the week. But there were still some beautifully ripe hothouse tomatoes and a little of the bread crumb topping from the seared cauliflower. What to do. What to do.

Lightly toast English muffins. Remove from toaster, place a tomato slice in the center of each muffin, top with a slice of cheese (in this case, Jarlsberg), then generously sprinkle the leftover bread crumb topping over that. Broil in a toaster oven until the bread crumbs just start to brown. Serve with extra slices of ripe tomato and strong, black coffee. Pack up the car, set the alarm and head west.

See you next weekend - Blog O. Food

We Call It Maize

So, during the aforementioned conversation with my boy Matty, I had already decided on centering a main dish around polenta and was mulling over what to do with all the inevitable leftovers the next day. We must have been talking about our favorite topic, bacon, because what I came up with set both our mouths to watering and our eyes to tearing:

Huevos rancheros on polenta - a recipe by Blog O. Food

4 dried Ancho chilies Water 1 clove garlic 2 whole allspice corns, crushed 2 black peppercorns, crushed ½ tsp salt 1 Tbsp olive oil Polenta, firmed and cut into 4" squares 2 large eggs 1 tsp distilled vinegar

Matty and I are sauce men. Salsa is fine for chips, but a good sauce, expertly turned out, can make grown men swoon - these two men, anyway. So instead of tomatoes, I opted for a Mexican red sauce to soak into the polenta and top my eggs.

Before starting the sauce, brush leftover polenta with a little olive oil and place in a pre-heated 350° oven and bake for 20 minutes. Cut the baked polenta into desired shapes.

The sauce:

Heat Ancho chilies for 30-45 seconds in a hot, dry skillet to release some of the oils and intensify the flavors. Turn them several times. You're not really toasting the chilies, which can turn bitter very quickly, but rather coaxing out some of the flavor. Steep the heated chilies in a small sauce pan with just enough slow boiling water to cover. Simmer for 15 minutes. Transfer the chilies and 1½ cups of the liquid to a food processor along with the garlic, crushed allspice & peppercorns and salt. Purée for several minutes until the sauce is completely smooth. Adjust the seasonings to taste.

Run the sauce through a sieve and back into the saucepan. Add the olive oil and bring to a simmer. Cook for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and use immediately, or transfer to a glass jar. The sauce will keep, refrigerated, for one week.

While the sauce simmers, poach 2 eggs in a shallow pan of just barely boiling water. You want only enough water to cover the eggs once they're placed in the pan. I was always told to add a splash of distilled vinegar to the water. It's supposed to help the eggs retain their shape. I don't know where I first heard this, but it seems to work, so I have not investigated the method any further. Poach eggs for 3 minutes and remove from their bath with a slotted spoon.

Place pieces of baked polenta on a serving dish, top with poached eggs and drizzle with the red sauce. I was gonna crisp up slices of pancetta, but feared straying too far from my Mexican roots. I went with thick-cut bacon instead.

Red sauce is complex and intense. You can remove the seeds and membranes from the dried chilies before you toast them. Most of the heat is locked in there. Be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling dried chilies, and never, ever touch your eyes, nose or mouth without doing so first. The allspice and peppercorns add more layers of flavor. Whole cumin and clove are also sometimes used. Traditionally, eggs are fried for this dish, but I've always loved a good poached egg, and my doctor loves my heart-healthy ways!

Back in 1998 I was in the middle of a cross-country road trip along Interstate 10. I was headed to San Diego for three months, escaping the summer heat of Miami, FL. One early morning, deep, deep in Texas territory, I answered my rumbling stomach in Sonora, where I stumbled upon the best huevos rancheros I have ever eaten. Fresh, homemade corn tortillas, double-thick slices of bacon, eggs and refried beans cooked in alarming amounts of bacon fat, and chili sauce a crimson color Harvard would be envious of. It was such a memorable breakfast, that I have never forgotten the name of the place: Mi Familia Restaurant 605 S. Crockett Avenue Sonora, TX 76950 (325) 387-2940 I'll bet I could drive there blindfolded even to this day.

I don't know if polenta will ever take the place of corn tortillas in huevos rancheros, I'm not convinced it really should. But now you have one more resourceful way to serve up leftovers without compromising your principles or offending your Italian and Mexican neighbors!

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

A Very Maine Sandwich

For my money, there's only one reason to trap and boil a poor defenseless lobster, and it's not for the very un-PETA reason you might think. No, it's all about the also very un-PETA lobster rolls the next day. I am one of the few people who doesn't find the taste of plain lobster meat appetizing. It has always had on "off" taste to me. I know, I know. I go to Maine every summer, and it's a slap in the face to eat lasagna on lobster night, but what can I say? But a good lobster roll is more than just stripped meat in a bun, and when Kipper, Natalie's son, found a new recipe this summer, I was sold all over again.

Lobster Rolls – adapted from Gourmet Magazine

1-1½ lb leftover lobster meat removed from shells 3 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 1⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1⁄3 cup scallions, thinly sliced ¼ cup celery, finely chopped ¼ cup celery leaves ¼ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped ½ stick unsalted butter 3 garlic cloves, smashed 6 top-split hot dog buns lemon wedges to garnish

Coarsely chop lobster meat. Whisk together lemon juice, olive oil and ½ tsp salt in a large bowl. Whisk in scallions, celery, celery leaves and parsley, then add lobster and gently toss. Season with salt. Melt butter with garlic in a small saucepan over low heat, mashing garlic with a spoon. Brush outside of buns with garlic butter. Grill buttered side down, until golden, about 1 minute. Fill buns with lobster salad.

Two words for Gourmet Magazine: Yuh Me. I have lobster rolls once or twice a year, and only ever on Chebeague Island. Why not make sure they're gonna be memorable? These fit the bill quite nicely. The lemon juice, greens and herbs infused the whole mixture with a real tangy freshness that I'd never had in any mayonnaise-based lobster roll before. It had a distinctive bite all its own. The reduction in calories had absolutely nothing to do with my favorable review, but in hindsight certainly earned it another check in the Pro column. Even keeper of the flame Natalie, Doyenne of Chebeague, was duly impressed.

There is something altogether proper about a New England top-split hot dog bun. It stands up vertically all on its own. It can be stuffed to the gills with lobster meat or sausage and condiments without coming apart at the seams. It is very thoroughly Yankee and therefore, American. If you are making lobster rolls with anything else, well then, the terrorists win.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

Wednesday: the New Sunday

What does one do with all that leftover polenta? Don't even think about opening the microwave door. The only reason to even approach that accursed machine is to pick it up and toss it from a 14-story window. Nope, lay out the polenta on a cutting slab and use a thin wire or filament (I use dental floss!), cut it into 2-inch squares and bake in a 275° oven for 20 minutes. Then take whatever's on hand and make a spread: mushrooms, olives, capers, anchovies, gherkins, whatever.

I had some sun-dried tomatoes, anchovies and some herbs that I chopped and tossed with some olive oil, salt and ground white pepper. It was salty, tangy, fruity, herbally and delicious.

Five minutes before I took the polenta out of the oven, I sprinkled the wedges with some leftover grated parmesan cheese because I was feeling randy. I ate the entire plate in front of the television watching baseball, and then sat rubbing my belling into the 6th inning.

I did everything short of licking the plate, including running my finger through the salt and crusty parmesan cheese. It was the third glass of wine that emboldened me. What of the leftover scallops, you say? They never made it beyond lunch.

Buon appetito - Blog O. Food

Loser Party of One: Leftovers Again?

I know what you're saying, "I thought Sunday was leftover night?" Well, it was a three-day weekend, and Monday became the new Sunday. Besides, who's making the rules around here, you or I? When we left our kitchen on Saturday, roast beast was resurrected to resume its rightful place in the dinner menu repertoire. But what do you do with all that leftover meat? My stepmother, Anita, wouldn't even have to pose the question. Cut up the roast into strips, slow cook with some chili, spices and a good stock until very tender. Re-fry leftover black beans from tostada night and wrap everything in a soft, warm flour tortilla.

Slow cook leftover roast beast in a good broth with some chili and spices tossed in to jazz up the meat.

Fry cooked black beans in olive oil. Break down some of the beans by mashing them with a fork. Cook most of the liquid out of the beans. Add slices of cheddar cheese and stir to melt into the beans.

Heat flour tortillas on a griddle until warm and soft. Flip frequently so that the tortillas do not get crispy.

Pile meat & beans in a warm tortilla, top with sour cream and hot sauce, and wrap everything up.

Having company? Make a pot of Mexican rice, or halve avocadoes, drizzle balsamic vinegar into the depression where the pit used to be, slice some radishes and chives, and serve on the side.

I've been making leftover burritos since I was 11 or 12-years old. Beans and tortillas were a constant in my childhood. My stepmother eschewed a knife and fork, but rather tore off a piece of tortilla and scooped everything on her plate into it. She could strip a pork or lamb chop bare with just that method. She was amazing.

We're gonna have to come up with a better title for this single-serving series. Losers don't eat this well.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

Just Toss It In There

If you're lucky enough to have a weekend place out in the Hamptons, or just know someone who does, you grow accustomed to a refrigerator full of leftovers by Sunday morning and are prepared in advance to whittle them down. That, I think, is why the egg preceded the chicken. A frittata, that noble, unaffected Italian omelette will make quick work of the three roasted asparagus spears, half a bell pepper, and wedge of Gouda from the appetizer course. The real trick is to pick two or three ingredients and resist tossing in the kitchen sink. Last weekend's kitchen scavenger hunt offered up a fennel bulb, a couple of sweet Italian sausage links, some Swiss and Parmesan cheeses, and a few herbs: a potential for the sum being much greater than its parts.

Although the prep work is similar, in my opinion, the frittata is easier to prepare than the traditional French omelette. You aren't faced with the whole folding challenge, and there is almost no guess work as to how runny the thing is gonna turn out by the time it hits the plate. Of course, the omelette is a lot more elegant from a presentation standpoint, but we're talking leftovers here, and so have already ceded the high ground.

Frittata basics: 12 eggs 3 Tbsp liquid - water, milk, half-n-half, cream (I use buttermilk) Salt and pepper

Very lightly beat all ingredients in a mixing bowl, just until incorporated. I don't like a lot of air in the beaten eggs.

In a large skillet, cook eggs in a little oil and butter over medium heat, scraping the sides and bottom of the pan as the eggs begin to set. When the mixture starts to solidify into a whole, but is still mostly wet, stop stirring and cook for one more minute to set eggs on the underside.

Put skillet about 6" below a pre-heated broiler in your oven and cook for 4-6 minutes. Watch the eggs carefully. They should brown thoroughly but will burn rather quickly once browning begins.

Remove skillet from the oven and let the frittata sit for 5-10 minutes to allow the center to finish cooking through.

Cut into wedges and serve with fresh salsa, sour cream or just plain.

If you're adding vegetables or meat to your frittata, heat them in the skillet first and then pour in the egg mixture. With cheese, add half to the wet egg/vegetable/meat mix, and sprinkle the rest over the egg mixture after you've stopped stirring and are waiting for the bottom to set.

Here's a caveat for you newer cooks: the latest gadget is the frittata pan: two pans, actually, with interlocking handles that allow you to "effortlessly" flip a frittata and brown the top without broiling. While I'm all for kitchen pornography, you just don't need this pan. Of course, if you have more money than brains, Williams-Sonoma will gladly take $135 for a 10" nonstick pan. Knock yourself out.

For some reason, this dish is a showstopper, especially for kids with fussy tastes. Must be the cheese. In any event, get in there and be creative, just think in terms of compatibilities. If it sounds like something you'd serve together for a meal, it will probably translate well in a frittata.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

And Thanks Were Given

Boy, you buy a new computer and you think all your problems are all solved, but oh no, they're just beginning, my friends. But here we are back in front of the keyboard and monitor, ready to resume. Where did we leave off? Oh yeah, Brussels sprouts. I did indeed sauté them with pancetta, honey and lemon, and the rack of lamb was perfection, and I'll get to that another time, but we've had a major holiday in the interim, and around this house all the stops were pulled. Ina, Jamie, Tyler, Alton, Emeril all covered the main event, but here's what they glossed over: Leftovers! Turkey meat and cranberry relish thickly layered onto slices of white bread lathered in mayo. Stuffing and gravy spilling over toast or re-heated mashed potatoes. Baked frittatas with leftover roasted root vegetables. Do you really need to ask why Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday?

Friday night saw us attempting to make room in the over-stuffed fridge by whittling down some of the turkey. And what better comfort food after a day of "Bolt" and cutthroat games of Russian Bank? Pot Pie naturally, and everything from scratch. So, roll up your sleeves and prepare to re-live Thanksgiving weekend one more time.

Biscuit Crust Turkey Pot Pie

For Filling

8 cups chicken stock 6 carrots, peeled and sliced ¼-inch thick 1½ lbs red potatoes, cut into medium cube 4 celery ribs, sliced ½-inch thick 5 cups cubed cooked turkey 12 Tbsp (1½ sticks) unsalted butter 2 medium onions, chopped 12 Tbsp all-purpose flour ½ tsp grated fresh nutmeg 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme Salt and freshly ground pepper

For Biscuit Crust

1¾ cups all-purpose flour 3 tsp baking powder 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp salt 4 Tbsp cold unsalted butter cut into cubes 4 Tbsp chilled shortening cut into cubes ¾ cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese 2 large eggs ¾ cup buttermilk 2 large egg yolks lightly beaten into 2 Tbsp milk for egg wash

Make the filling

Bring stock to the boil in a large, heavy saucepan. Add carrots, potatoes & celery and simmer, uncovered, until tender 10-15 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove vegetables from stock, reserving liquid for the sauce. Melt butter in a large Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add onions and cook until softened, 6-8 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes to make a roux. Add reserved cooking broth in a slow stream, whisking constantly, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 3 minutes while continuing to whisk. Stir in nutmeg, thyme, salt & pepper to taste. Add turkey and vegetables to the Dutch oven and gently stir to combine.

Make the biscuits

Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large mixing bowl. Cut in butter and shortening with a pastry cutter until mixture resembles coarse meal. Fold in cheese. Break eggs into liquid measuring cup and add just enough well-shaken buttermilk to total 1 cup and beat with a fork. Add to flour mixture, stirring just enough to form a loose dough. Gather dough into ball and roll out on a lightly floured surface to ½ inch thickness. With a floured cutter, cut out as many rounds as possible. Gather scraps and re-roll dough to cut out more rounds in the same manner. Arrange rounds on top of filling to form a crust, then brush with egg wash and poke all over with a fork. Bake in a pre-heated 450° oven 15-25 minutes or until biscuits are puffed and golden brown.

This is comfort food every thrifty grandmother (and father) will recognize immediately. It sticks to the ribs, stretches your food budget, and allows you one more triptophan-induced nap. It also happens to be freaking delicious. You'll want to make extra biscuits. Ours were put to work sopping up sauce. I don't think even one bowl needed rinsing before going into the dishwasher after this meal.

Thanks for taking the time, and Happy Thanksgiving, again - Blog O Food