A Very Maine Sandwich

For my money, there's only one reason to trap and boil a poor defenseless lobster, and it's not for the very un-PETA reason you might think. No, it's all about the also very un-PETA lobster rolls the next day. I am one of the few people who doesn't find the taste of plain lobster meat appetizing. It has always had on "off" taste to me. I know, I know. I go to Maine every summer, and it's a slap in the face to eat lasagna on lobster night, but what can I say? But a good lobster roll is more than just stripped meat in a bun, and when Kipper, Natalie's son, found a new recipe this summer, I was sold all over again.

Lobster Rolls – adapted from Gourmet Magazine

1-1½ lb leftover lobster meat removed from shells 3 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 1⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1⁄3 cup scallions, thinly sliced ¼ cup celery, finely chopped ¼ cup celery leaves ¼ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped ½ stick unsalted butter 3 garlic cloves, smashed 6 top-split hot dog buns lemon wedges to garnish

Coarsely chop lobster meat. Whisk together lemon juice, olive oil and ½ tsp salt in a large bowl. Whisk in scallions, celery, celery leaves and parsley, then add lobster and gently toss. Season with salt. Melt butter with garlic in a small saucepan over low heat, mashing garlic with a spoon. Brush outside of buns with garlic butter. Grill buttered side down, until golden, about 1 minute. Fill buns with lobster salad.

Two words for Gourmet Magazine: Yuh Me. I have lobster rolls once or twice a year, and only ever on Chebeague Island. Why not make sure they're gonna be memorable? These fit the bill quite nicely. The lemon juice, greens and herbs infused the whole mixture with a real tangy freshness that I'd never had in any mayonnaise-based lobster roll before. It had a distinctive bite all its own. The reduction in calories had absolutely nothing to do with my favorable review, but in hindsight certainly earned it another check in the Pro column. Even keeper of the flame Natalie, Doyenne of Chebeague, was duly impressed.

There is something altogether proper about a New England top-split hot dog bun. It stands up vertically all on its own. It can be stuffed to the gills with lobster meat or sausage and condiments without coming apart at the seams. It is very thoroughly Yankee and therefore, American. If you are making lobster rolls with anything else, well then, the terrorists win.

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Island Life - Part II

Family is a BIG part of island life for the Chebeague clan. Kids are encouraged to take part in everything, including the cooking. (Hey, did someone mention Maine lobster earlier?) Natalie has passed down the tradition of mercifully putting the bugs to sleep before they are boiled alive in a huge copper pot. The old gal is an expert at the technique. With one hand, hold a lobster upside down and with the index finger on the other hand, run up and down the shell just below the head. This relaxes the lobster completely. You can even let it go and it will quite literally stand on its head. Kids as old at 16 get into the act.

Lobster is served whole with melted butter and lemon wedges on the side. These island folk are expert at extracting every ounce of sweet flesh from a carcass. Shells are discarded into huge bowls in the center of the table. The carnage is extraordinary. By the time the butter congeals, dessert is whipped up. In this case, Aunt Stacie Webb’s blueberry crumble. Stacie swears not to go to the grave with her recipe, but no one is holding out much hope.

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