You've Been Chopped

After a couple of simply lovely days here on the east coast, we were treated to a spectacular thunderstorm Friday around sundown. I turned off all the lights, opened all the blinds and watched the pyrotechnics - red wine at the ready - well away from any electrical appliances. But with the light show and canon reports came hot & steamy weather that has pressed down us ever since.

As most of you know, I'm a California boy. I consider 45% relative humidity as redlining it. I start losing alarming amounts of water weight at anything over fifty percent. Rapidly. And embarrassingly. On the un-air-conditioned NYC subway platforms I look like the proverbial cat that fell into a well and is none too happy about it. Therefore, my Saturday shopping was simply out of the question; I would have to make do with whatever was in the cupboards. So I decided to make a game out of it, my own version of the Food Network's "Chopped". I did have some frozen chicken legs and thighs to act as a starting point. The test would be to come up with something besides the predictable and predictably boring grilled meat.

So get a load of this.

Balsamic & Dried Fruit Glaze - by Blog O. Food

¾ cup dried mixed fruit, roughly chopped* ¼ cup balsamic vinegar ¾ cup dry white wine 1 Tbsp raw cane sugar 1 tsp Ancho chili powder 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground nutmeg ½ tsp ground allspice ⅛ tsp ground white pepper

Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Mix thoroughly, reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered - stirring occasionally - for 30 minutes, or until the cooking liquid has reduced to a thick syrup.

Meanwhile, rinse and thoroughly dry the chicken, season liberally with salt and pepper, then brown on both sides (3-4 minutes per side) in a little olive oil in a large sauté pan with a tight-fitting lid, over medium-high heat. Once the poultry has some good color, turn heat up to high and add some Marsala wine, between half and a full cup. Just enough to come up about a quarter of the way on the chicken pieces. Bring to a boil. Cover the pan with the lid, and place in a 375°F pre-heated oven. Roast for about 20 minutes. Just long enough to cook the chicken through.

As an accompaniment, I toyed with rice, beans, noodles, even some grits in the larder before spying orzo behind some dried chilies. Perfect for standing up to, and soaking up juices and sauce. Just follow the cooking directions on the package. Arrange cooked chicken atop a big mound of stuff, and spoon the glaze and syrup artfully over everything. The money shot will take care of itself.

Seeing as their was only one contestant in my Chopped challenge, I had a 50/50 chance of walking away with the crown, but the whole exercise coulda blown up in my face as well. I'm happy to report it did not. You try this dish, and I guarantee you'll win top honors with your own judging panel at home.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

*Dried apricots, cranberries, golden raisins, cherries, and blueberries.

So Easy. So Good.

I've said it once; I'll say it again, cooking for one sucks. Sometimes it takes every fiber in my being not to chuck it all and put every single local restaurant's phone number on speed dial. Seriously. Luckily though, Melissa Clark of the NY Times came to my rescue just in the nick of time with some easy, fresh and seasonal dishes that fairly scream "loser, party of one."

Roasted Asparagus with Hard-Cooked Eggs and Sesame Salt

2 large eggs ¼ lb asparagus, ends trimmed 2 Tbsp butter Salt and black pepper ¾ tsp sesame seeds 1 tsp coarse sea salt

To keep eggs from cracking, let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Pierce the larger round end of the eggs with an egg prick or safety pin, then place in a saucepan just large enough that eggs sit in a single layer. Fill the pan with enough tepid water to cover the eggs by 1 inch. Add 1 teaspoon of salt. Over high heat, bring water just to a low boil, then remove from heat, and cover. Begin timing immediately, 8 minutes for firm yolks. Transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water to stop cooking and allow to cool completely. On a work surface, gently tap eggs all over to crack. Peel under cold running water with a sharp paring knife. Chop fine, or cut with an egg slicer.

Preheat oven to 400°. Toss asparagus with olive oil and spread over a large baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. Roast, turning occasionally, until crispy-tender, about ten minutes, then transfer to a platter.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet, toast sesame seeds over medium heat until fragrant and just golden, about 1 minute. Pour into a bowl and toss with the coarse salt.

Melt butter in the same skillet and allow to develop a little color, about 4 minutes. Turn off heat and toss in peeled, sliced eggs.

To serve, spoon the egg mixture over the asparagus, then sprinkle with sesame salt. Top with shavings of fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Pan-seared Asparagus Salad with Frisée and Fried Egg

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped Salt ¾ tsp finely chopped anchovy 2 tsp lemon juice 6 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil ½ lb asparagus, trimmed 1½ cups torn Frisée lettuce 2 large eggs Black pepper

Mash garlic and a pinch of salt into a paste with the side of a knife. Mix in a small bowl with anchovy, lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of oil.

Place a large skillet over medium-high heat for 20 seconds. Add 3 tablespoons of oil. When it shimmers, add the asparagus. Toss occasionally until golden brown and almost tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and cook until tender, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Transfer to a large bowl; add Frisée and the garlic-anchovy dressing and toss gently.

Return skillet to medium heat and add the remaining oil. Crack eggs; season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook until the eggs are just set, about 3 minutes. To serve, arrange salad on a plate and top with eggs.

Eggs and asparagus. Genius, pure genius. Each dish took about 20 minutes to prepare from start to finish. I only wish I could say it took that long to wolf it down! Let's not get all hyperbolical with the claim that Melissa saved my life, but she did keep me from despair for another week.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

Rotisserie Chicken

Know who doesn't like rotisserie chicken? (Tell 'em, Matty.) Jerks, that's who. But how many of you have a spit in your home? Okay, how many of you live in New York City and have one? I thought so. Well, my muses at Canal House came up with a brilliant solution that works right in the oven. Everyone has an oven, right?

Rotisserie Chicken - adapted from Canal House Cooking

1 whole roaster chicken, 5-6 lbs 3-6 Tbsp olive oil Salt Fresh thyme Fresh tarragon Carrots, halved length-wise, then quartered Heirloom potatoes, quartered 2 medium yellow onions, quartered 8 garlic cloves, peeled Crusty bread

Evidently, copyright infringement laws preclude me from sharing the recipe, but see if you can put two and two together on your own from the helpful illustrations provided by yours truly. (Maybe I should copyright my own photos, but hey, I'm not bitter.)

Golden, crispy skinned. Moist, fall-off-the-bone flesh. Vegetables soaked in rich chicken fat and stock. Herbally aromas permeating the entire floor of my building. Now that's how you cook a chicken.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

Slow-cooked Pork Tacos

So if we just ignored the fact that I haven't posted a recipe since December 1, 2010, do you think anyone would notice? Yeah, me neither.

Winter is grudgingly giving way to spring, but not without a lot of fuss and some chilly nights. Why not chase to the blues away with Nature's comfort food - Mexican.

Slow-cooked Pork Tacos - From food52.com

2 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 2 tsp Ancho chili powder 1 tsp chipotle chili powder ½ tsp dried oregano 2 lbs boneless pork shoulder, cut into ¾" chunks Kosher salt Peanut oil 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped 1 poblano pepper, finely chopped 1 Serrano chili, seeded and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 cup canned diced tomatoes, with their juices 1½ cups chicken stock 2 large limes Corn tortillas 2 avocados Pickled onions (recipe to follow) Cilantro

Pickled onions

1 medium red onion 1 Tbsp Kosher salt 2 Tbsp sugar ¼ medium beet, peeled Handful cilantro Cider vinegar

Slice the onion thinly and put in a glass container safe for the microwave. Add the salt, sugar, beet and cilantro. Cover everything with 1 part water to 2 parts vinegar. Microwave for 1 minute, stir, and microwave for another minute. Cool, then cover and refrigerate for several hours, or overnight.

Put the cumin and coriander in a small skillet over medium heat. Toast the spices for a minute or two, shaking the pan occasionally, until they're fragrant. (Be careful not to scorch them.) Grind the spices using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Transfer to a small bowl, stir in both chili powders and the oregano and set aside.

Heat a tablespoon of oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the pork well with salt and add about half of the meat to the pot. Brown well on all sides, about 4 minutes total, and transfer to a bowl using a slotted spoon. Add more oil and brown the second batch of meat, adding it to the bowl once it's done.

Lower the heat to medium and add another tablespoon of oil to the pot. Add the onion, poblano, Serrano and a generous pinch of salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or so, until fragrant. Stir in the spice mixture and cook for another minute.

Return the meat to the pot, along with any juices that have accumulated, and add the tomatoes and chicken stock. (The meat should just be covered in liquid - if not, add a little water.) Squeeze in the juice of half a lime and add 2 teaspoons of salt. Turn up the heat to high and bring the liquid to a boil. Lower the heat, cover the pot and simmer gently for an hour. Uncover the pot and continue to simmer until the pork is very tender and the sauce is reduced and thick, 20 30 to 60 minutes longer. Taste for seasoning, and squeeze another half a lime into the sauce.

To serve, heat tortillas on a dry griddle or skillet. Peel and roughly chop the avocados and sprinkle with a little lime juice to keep them from turning brown. Cut another lime into thin wedges. Fill each taco with some of the pork, cilantro, avocado, and pickled onion. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing. Don't forget the cerveza Mexicana!

Talk about getting back into the swing of things with a little verve and panache. The roomie was duly impressed. So was the cook for that matter! It's good to be back.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

Variations on a Theme

The Lone Ranger and I accepted an invitation to Miami from my old friends GBF & the Sweet Baboo for Thanksgiving. We were assured of balmy weather, golfies, trips to South Beach, and afternoon dips in their inviting swimming pool. Who could refuse, right? Our trip, however, coincided with Homeland Security's crackdown on underwear bombers, and flip flop highjackers. I know this is gonna put people off, but the whole airport safety program is an exercise in futility. It's the mere pretense of protection, going nowhere near far enough in actually stopping acts of terrorism; it only manages to irritate the traveling public, causing them to muse about becoming terrorists themselves. The real aim is to cover the ass of every ineffectual politician in Washington, allowing them to appear to take "the war on terrorism" seriously. Well, we managed to trigger some subconscious alarm in an overeager behaviorist working for jetBlue, who tipped off the TSA agents that we were prime candidates for thorough pat downs and carry-on luggage inspections. The Lone Ranger blamed me, for refusing to acknowledge this imbecile's vacuous greetings as we approached the X-ray machines (I hate talking to strangers, especially cheerful ones). I, in self defense, blamed the unchecked toxins whooshing around his, the behaviorist's, moronic brain. Whatever the actual reason, we endured 30 minutes of probing and prodding before being cleared for take-off. Afterwards, I was in desperate need of alcohol and nicotine, but was deprived of both thanks to LaGuardia's lamentably inadequate forethought and design. Instead, I consoled myself with spontaneous consumption of culinary eye candy at the diminutive yet formidable news stand. That, and my trusty iPod, were the only things saving me from a manslaughter charge.

Risotto ai funghi e nocciole - adapted from La Cucina Italiana

½ cup hazelnuts 4 oz dried porcini mushrooms 3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley plus more for serving 2 small shallots 1 fresh bay leaf 2½ cups Vialone Nano rice ½ cup dry white wine 4-5 cups vegetable broth 2 Tbsp hazelnut oil 2 Tbsp freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Heat oven to 350°F with rack in middle. Spread nuts on a baking sheet. Bake until fragrant and lightly golden, 10-12 minutes; transfer to wire rack and cool completely. Roughly chop in a food processor.

Reconstitute mushrooms by soaking in very hot water for 15 minutes, or until tender. Strain through a sieve, reserving liquid. Chop roughly and toss with parsley and a generous pinch of salt & pepper; set aside.

In a heavy, large saucepan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add shallots, half of the nuts and bay leaf. Cook, stirring occasionally for 3 minutes, then add rice and cook, stirring constantly, until rice is lightly toasted, about 5 minutes more; reduce heat to medium-low.

Add wine and cook until it is mostly absorbed, then add 1 cup reserved mushroom liquid and cook, stirring, until liquid is mostly absorbed, 5-7 minutes. Add ½ cup more of liquid and cook, stirring, until mostly absorbed. In ½ cupfuls, add remaining mushroom liquid, stirring until each addition is mostly absorbed before adding the next, until rice is tender yet still slightly firm to the bite (you'll move over to the vegetable broth once all the reserved mushroom liquid is used. You may have broth left over.).

Stir in half of the reserved mushrooms, then add 1 tablespoon hazelnut oil and the cheese; stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

In a small bowl, toss together remaining mushrooms and hazelnuts. Drizzle with remaining tablespoon hazelnut oil and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Serve risotto on a large platter topped with extra mushroom & nut mixture.

This blog post is labeled "comfort food" for good reason. My risotto consoled. Nutty, earthy, salty and savory, each forkful was a respite. The preparation alone was enough to wash away the bad taste of that last airport experience. Save for an obligatory visit to family on the west coast later this month, I swear on all that is held holy, with the end of 2010 I may never fly another mile. But I WILL make this dish again and again.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food